A Week on the Amalfi Coast

Cliffside rooms over the bay with a private path down to the beach. Drop the bags and head straight to the terrace.

Hundreds of candles, a sea view, and handmade pasta — the classic first night in Positano.

The famous ridge trail from Bomerano to Nocelle: lemon terraces, sheer drops, and the whole coast below. Start early to beat the heat.

Reachable only by the little red boat from Positano. Grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves and a swim between courses.

A negroni as the cliffs turn gold. No reservations — just arrive before the light goes.

Skip the winding road and take the fast ferry across — the approach to the island is half the fun.

Around the Faraglioni, into the Blue Grotto, and a swim wherever the water's clearest.

Back before dinner, salt still in your hair.

The striped cathedral and its Cloister of Paradise, then an espresso in the piazza.

The gardens that inspired Wagner, with the most photographed view on the coast.

A special-occasion table high above the sea in Ravello.

A hidden fjord beneath an arched bridge — bring your suit for the swim.

Up in the hills above Positano; they'll send a shuttle. Garden vegetables and house wine.

An hour up the coast to the ruins — go before the midday heat.

Two thousand years frozen in ash: the forum, the baths, the plaster casts. A guide makes it come alive.

Clifftop tables and the catch of the day on the way back.

Walk the terraced groves, then limoncello and lemon granita in the shade.

Family-run, a set menu of endless courses, the whole coast twinkling below. The perfect last night.