🌋 IcelandReykjavik travel guide
Reykjavik is a small, colorful capital that rewards slowing down: a walkable harbor city of corrugated-iron houses, strong coffee, and geothermal pools, with glaciers, waterfalls, and the northern lights an easy drive away. Most travelers use it as a base for day trips, and that works well, but the city itself is worth a couple of unhurried days.
Where to stay
Miðborg (Old Town & Laugavegur)
The compact downtown core, where Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur string together cafés, wool shops, and bars beneath the spire of Hallgrímskirkja.
Grandi (Old Harbour)
A working harbor turned food-and-art quarter, with whale-watching boats, the Valdís ice cream counter, and the Marshall House arts complex in a former herring factory.
Laugardalur
Reykjavik's green valley just east of center, home to the city's largest geothermal pool, a botanic garden, and room to breathe.
Vesturbær
A quiet residential west-side neighborhood built around its local pool, Vesturbæjarlaug, with an unpretentious, lived-in feel.
Don't miss
Soak in a neighborhood geothermal pool
Laugardalslaug and Vesturbæjarlaug are where locals actually go: cheaper and more relaxed than the marketed lagoons, and open year-round.
Go up Hallgrímskirkja's tower
Take the lift up the landmark church for the best view over the colored rooftops, out to the sea, and across to Mount Esja.
Drive the Golden Circle
Þingvellir's rift valley, the Geysir hot spring area, and Gullfoss waterfall make a classic full-day loop; rent a car or join a small-group tour.
Chase the South Coast waterfalls
Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, and the black-sand beach at Reynisfjara are a longer day east, with dramatic scenery the whole way.
Eat by the harbor
Grab a lamb-and-pork hot dog from the famous downtown stand, then go for fresh fish or a bowl of lobster soup near the Old Harbour.
Hunt the northern lights
From roughly September to March, head away from city light on a clear night, or take a guided tour that follows the aurora forecast for you.
How to get to Reykjavik from the airport
International flights land at Keflavík Airport (KEF), roughly 50 kilometers southwest of the city and about 45 minutes by road. Airport buses run to the city and the main hotels, taxis are available, and a rental car is easiest if you plan to leave the city. Reykjavik's small domestic airport is separate and serves flights within Iceland.
Inside the city you can walk almost everywhere and the city buses cover the rest. Tours and a rental car are for the day trips.
Two days in the city, then the countryside
A loose shape for a first visit that keeps the driving separate from the walking.
- Day 1: Hallgrímskirkja and its tower, the Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur streets, the harbor and an evening in a neighborhood pool.
- Day 2: the harbor and Grandi, the Harpa concert hall and the waterfront walk, a museum or a whale-watching trip from the Old Harbour.
- Day 3: the Golden Circle, by car or tour.
- Day 4: the South Coast, or an overnight to see the lights and the coast without rushing.
The Golden Circle: three stops and a long day
The classic loop is roughly 300 kilometers from Reykjavik and back, about three and a half to four hours of driving before stops, so treat it as the day's whole plan. It links Þingvellir National Park, a rift valley on the edge of the North American and Eurasian plates and a UNESCO World Heritage site; the Geysir geothermal area, where Strokkur erupts every few minutes; and the Gullfoss waterfall.
Start early to get ahead of the tour buses, and add a swim at one of the small country pools or lagoons on the way back if you want something other than a driving day.
The South Coast and its sea
The waterfalls at Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss and the black sand at Reynisfjara are the draw of the South Coast. It is roughly 180 kilometers to Vík, a little over two hours each way before any stops, so it is a long day by car or tour. Staying a night makes it a better trip.
Reynisfjara has dangerous sneaker waves that have swept visitors off the beach. Stay well back from the water's edge, never turn your back on the sea, and heed the warning signs and lights.
Driving in Iceland: the rules that catch visitors out
Iceland is easy to drive in good weather and unforgiving in bad. These are the points that catch visitors out most often.
- Headlights must be on at all times.
- Off-road driving is illegal, even on what looks like a track. Mountain F-roads are for suitable 4x4 vehicles and are closed for much of the year.
- Many bridges are single-lane. Slow down and give way to the vehicle that is already on it.
- Check the road and weather services each morning: road.is for road conditions, vedur.is for weather and safetravel.is for alerts. Gravel, sand and wind damage are often excluded from basic rental insurance, so read what is covered.
- Hold car doors with both hands in wind, and fill the tank before long remote stretches. The emergency number is 112.
Lagoons, pools and the etiquette that goes with them
The Blue Lagoon, near the airport on the Reykjanes peninsula, and the Sky Lagoon, in Kópavogur a short drive from central Reykjavik, are the well-known options and usually need a timed booking ahead. Neighborhood pools such as Laugardalslaug and Vesturbæjarlaug are where locals go and cost far less.
Pool etiquette is a firm rule: shower thoroughly without your swimsuit before you get in, using the soap provided. Staff may remind you, and locals take it seriously.
Northern lights, midnight sun and daylight
The northern lights are usually seen between about September and early April, on clear, dark nights away from city light. They are never guaranteed, so give yourself several nights and watch the aurora forecast from the Icelandic Meteorological Office.
Around the June solstice it barely gets dark, which is wonderful for long days of driving and hard on sleep, so ask for blackout curtains. In midwinter daylight shrinks to a little over four hours, so plan your sightseeing for the middle of the day.
Check before you go
These change by season and by year. Confirm each one with the official source before you book; this guide's planning notes were last reviewed on .
- Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon: timed tickets, prices and opening hours change and popular slots sell out. Volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula has at times closed roads, the lagoon and nearby towns, so check the current status before you plan around it.
- Roads and weather: check road.is, vedur.is and safetravel.is on the day you drive. Winter storms close roads and mountain F-roads are open only in summer.
- Reynisfjara and other coast stops: follow the warning signs and lights and stay back from the water.
- Northern lights: the season and the aurora forecast vary. Check the Icelandic Meteorological Office forecast and the cloud cover on the night.
- Daylight and tour schedules: daylight changes fast through the year, and some tours and attractions run on a reduced winter schedule.
When to go
June through August brings the midnight sun, the warmest weather, and full access to the highlands, along with peak prices and crowds. September through March is northern lights season; February and March often balance dark skies with longer daylight and more reliable roads than the depths of winter.
Practical facts for Reykjavik, with sources
Each fact comes from the organization named beside it and was checked on the date shown. Rules, seasons and fees change, so confirm with the source before you rely on one.
Keflavík Airport is about 50 kilometers (31 miles) from Reykjavík.
Source: Visit Reykjavík · checked
Between Keflavík Airport and the Reykjavík area, the Flybus (operated by Icelandia) runs connections timed with arriving flights, and public bus 55 runs daily.
Source: Visit Reykjavík · checked
Swimmers at Reykjavík's public pools are required to shower naked and wash thoroughly with soap before entering the pool; the pools provide the soap.
Source: City of Reykjavík · checked
Visit Reykjavík says the quality of tap water in Reykjavík is well monitored.
Source: Visit Reykjavík · checked
Iceland's currency is the króna (ISK), and Icelanders use credit and debit cards almost exclusively as a method of payment; foreign currencies are very rarely accepted.
Source: Visit Reykjavík · checked
In an emergency in Iceland, call 112.
Source: Visit Iceland · checked
The Icelandic Met Office publishes an aurora forecast on a scale of 0 to 9, and notes that the aurora requires dark and partly clear skies.
Source: Icelandic Met Office · checked
Good to know
How many days do I need in Reykjavik?
Two to three days covers the city itself, but most people add day trips. Budget five days or more total if you want the Golden Circle, the South Coast, and time to relax in the pools.
Is Reykjavik walkable?
Yes. The downtown core is small and easily covered on foot. You'll only want a car or a tour for the day trips, since the famous sights are spread across the countryside.
When can I see the northern lights?
From about September to March, when the nights are dark enough. You need a clear sky and some luck, so give yourself several nights and check the aurora forecast.
Is Iceland really as expensive as people say?
It is pricey, especially food, drink, and tours. You can cut costs by cooking some meals, swimming at municipal pools instead of the marketed lagoons, and refilling a bottle with the excellent tap water.
Where to next?
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